CLIMBING TOOLS -Sport 101 - The Lower

CLIMBING TOOLS -Sport 101 - The Lower - Part 1

Envoyée le mardi 22 juillet 2008 11:58:56
par mikebarter387
Vue 13957 fois
Note 4.2 sur 20 vote(s)

A great percentage of sport climbing accidents happen after the climber reachs the anchor. Next to belayer miscommunication not having a system is the next killer.
This is not a replacement for pro instruction. See part 2 same thing from a diffrent angle. Remember one mistake and it is big pancake! What I am saying is that you have to get this right. There is no room for error. Also check out part 2 which is the same thing but I think it is worth repeating.

Commentaire(s)

maxinpains

the lady has a nice rack...can't believe she had that many childrens...LOL
mercredi 02 juin 2010 15:22:54
ted2758

MIKE CUTS NOTHING NOSE PICKA!!!
mercredi 02 juin 2010 01:38:17
mezzanodalaghetto

Nice boobs!
lundi 11 janvier 2010 11:37:31
putamierda1983

nice boobs!
mercredi 09 septembre 2009 07:04:45
shabbaamyas

so i read the posts from yasso, then i read the ACMG qualifications... im gonna have to go with the guide on this one.
samedi 22 août 2009 18:35:25
sytby

wrap 5-7mm cord (tied in a loop with fisherman's knots) 3-5 times around both strands of the rope, below the rap device. Clip a small locking 'biner through the ends of the loop and around a leg loop on your brake-hand side. It acts much like a prussik. For more, see Freedom of the Hills, 7 ed, p. 203, fig 11-19.
mardi 14 juillet 2009 18:36:42
werdnativ

I wouldn't overdo the worrying about clipping into a single steel biner or cold shut. They don't just break under body weight... just inspect it and go. For a lower-off, the belay loop is perfectly good. You rappel from that same loop, and the belayer uses the same thing to hold your hangdogging ass over and over... The only things I thread through my harness & leg loops is the rope and a daisy chain. That leaves the belay loop free for more practical uses, such as this. Good vid.
jeudi 09 juillet 2009 14:23:48
headchange78

Yea what she is doing is not recommended, but a fast way out of the nest and down ASAP if needed. However it would have been better if she ran her bite through two points of the lower off, and also would have been better if she took her locking and ran it through her harness and not just off her belay loop. But honestly look at many of Mikes other videos, he definitely makes top choices. This not being the best one, sorry Mike! haha
lundi 18 mai 2009 04:30:43
simongeering

Mike, thanks for this video. Am off sport climbing on south coast of UK this weekend and it was very helpful. I was first tought this technique at the National Mountanearing Center in Wales, and as you note it's something to practice before you need it for real. This was a useful reminder of the key points covered on that course, would be nice to have the other half covering what to do if the rap ring is too small for a bight of rope.
jeudi 19 mars 2009 12:53:03
mikebarter387

The woman teaching this is a ACMG mountain guide and mountain Safety Specialist in banff, Canada. The guy filming is a mountain guide with 20 years experience. This shot takes place in Spain and it is how we deal with this type of anchor. We wouldn't show this otherwise. You are right to question us, your book, instructors. Sounds like you are doing things right. good luck out there.
samedi 14 mars 2009 13:24:09
mikebarter387

The woman teaching this is a ACMG mountain guide and mountain Safety Specialist in banff, Canada. The guy filming is a mountain guide with 20 years experience. This shot takes place in Spain and it is how we deal with this type of anchor. We wouldn't show this otherwise. You are right to question us, your book, instructors. Sounds like you are doing things right. good luck out there.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 06:55:33
mikebarter387

Technically after several years of constant use they may show signs of wear and technically the crags hommies technically replace the rings cause it looks like your not technically going to do it, technically speaking.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 06:49:30
mikebarter387

This method is THE method for this anchor. End of story. The unfortunate thing is that your long winded babble only confuses those who are trying to learn.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 06:43:08
mikebarter387

I hear you. I like stoppers because they are predictable. However cams will go places that nuts will not. So you have to have both for most longer gear routes. No way around that really other then running it out.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 06:38:32
Dwiman89

Im new to climbing, but isnt this considered rappeling through a "cold shut" anchor and ill advised. I dont trully understand it. It was just in a guidebook I have... I am just top roping for now and only climb things that have safe access to the top in order to set up top rope. My rack isnt equiped enough for this nor do I have the knowledge yet, but i would like learnign the general concepts now.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 00:53:40
yasso2am

After watching your other videos and reading the comments I find it interesting that you can not take a single piece of constructive criticism. I did not attack you personally, nor call you names or insult you. Even if I disagree with someone I'm always interested in how other people do things because I realize there is a chance that I may be doing things incorrectly as well, hence why I watched your video in the first place. Oh well, I hope this attitude serves you well.
jeudi 19 février 2009 08:53:53
yasso2am

Once you put yourself on rappel and properly secure an autobloc, it is simply a matter of removing your two clips and safely and ethically rappelling to the ground. I commend your attempt here, and I understand everyone does things differently, however I just thought I'd voice my concern.
jeudi 19 février 2009 00:44:25
yasso2am

Technically many crags do not like when you "lower" off the rap rings because it causes undue wear on the rings. They are called Rap rings because you are supposed to Rappel off of them. Clipping yourself in via two points and untie-ing from the rope should not be scary at all. You simply need to trust in your gear and understand exactly what you are doing.
jeudi 19 février 2009 00:44:14
yasso2am

I understand you are just trying to make an educational video and be helpful to beginner climbers. You do make the claim that this is not professional instruction, however I think simply having this up will lead people astray. Furthermore, I feel as though the method you are teaching here is less safe/ethical than many other methods and I wish you properly followed the directions you described above.
jeudi 19 février 2009 00:43:22
RICHY940

great vids iv laerned a lot! wat do you think about stoppers compared to cams ......the only reason i like stopers is cause they are afordable...
mercredi 13 août 2008 22:01:21
mikebarter387

What ever you do do not try this following the directions I just gave you. Youtube is not a great place to learn this technique. I only add it for completeness and do so hesitantly. Anybody ever seen me put in so many disclaimers. I will answer that, no you haven't. I'm a jerk at heart and don' really like people but up till now at least I can say I ain't never killed anybody that didn't need killin.
dimanche 27 juillet 2008 21:22:26
mikebarter387

You have a god and valid point. I Anchors that you can't get a byte through you have to clip your self in with two pieces to a hard point (Belay loop). Then you have to clip the rope to the anchor so that you don't drop it. Nect you have to untie from the rope (scary) and feed the end then re-tye into the rope or hook in with a locking biner and a 8 on a bight. Your right though I need to do a video on this to be complete. Mike
dimanche 27 juillet 2008 21:18:20
generationfourth

MIke, I like this system and it seems faster and more safe than using something like my metolious pas. But what about anchors that use just chains instead of a large ring that you can slip a bight through?
dimanche 27 juillet 2008 19:57:09
dmosier

More good tips from Mike Barter and Friends. Keep it up !
mercredi 23 juillet 2008 23:10:43