CLIMBING TOOLS -Sport 101 - The Lower

CLIMBING TOOLS -Sport 101 - The Lower - Part 1

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Envoyée le mardi 22 juillet 2008 11:58:56
par mikebarter387
Vue 22547 fois

3.8 / 5
35 vote(s)

A great percentage of sport climbing accidents happen after the climber reachs the anchor. Next to belayer miscommunication not having a system is the next killer.
This is not a replacement for pro instruction. See part 2 same thing from a diffrent angle. Remember one mistake and it is big pancake! What I am saying is that you have to get this right. There is no room for error. Also check out part 2 which is the same thing but I think it is worth repeating.

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NearlyDutch

This is actually bad, overly complicated. I'm suprised this could be seen as an instruction video.
lundi 09 janvier 2012 10:51:18
mikebarter387

Oh boy, Where to start? The anchor actually only has one rap ring. I believe it is a Fixe chain station that is incorrectly placed( horz instead or vert). This anchor was in Spain and there like here no standard system is implimented. Getting lowered off the climb is much more common then fixing a rappell system. The lead does not have to fix her own gear to be lowered. The fixed steel biner is very common in Spain not something I like to use personally but they do there. Bring IT!!
jeudi 29 septembre 2011 10:24:33
thumlyly

There are two bolted ring hangers, each with a rappel ring. Why there is a chain and a steel carabiner, we are not told and they are not part of the demonstration, so another anchor should have been used. Using one anchor is bad practice; and using a ring to belay is bad practice. The lead has not made a top-rope rigging with her own gear to be belayed down, and has not properly rappelled on two strands reaching the ground that do not slide through the two rings. Nothing in it is good practice.
mardi 27 septembre 2011 22:12:08
maxinpains

the lady has a nice rack...can't believe she had that many childrens...LOL
mercredi 02 juin 2010 15:22:54
mezzanodalaghetto

Nice boobs!
lundi 11 janvier 2010 11:37:31
shabbaamyas

so i read the posts from yasso, then i read the ACMG qualifications... im gonna have to go with the guide on this one.
samedi 22 août 2009 18:35:25
werdnativ

I wouldn't overdo the worrying about clipping into a single steel biner or cold shut. They don't just break under body weight... just inspect it and go. For a lower-off, the belay loop is perfectly good. You rappel from that same loop, and the belayer uses the same thing to hold your hangdogging ass over and over... The only things I thread through my harness & leg loops is the rope and a daisy chain. That leaves the belay loop free for more practical uses, such as this. Good vid.
jeudi 09 juillet 2009 14:23:48
simongeering

Mike, thanks for this video. Am off sport climbing on south coast of UK this weekend and it was very helpful. I was first tought this technique at the National Mountanearing Center in Wales, and as you note it's something to practice before you need it for real. This was a useful reminder of the key points covered on that course, would be nice to have the other half covering what to do if the rap ring is too small for a bight of rope.
jeudi 19 mars 2009 12:53:03
mikebarter387

The woman teaching this is a ACMG mountain guide and mountain Safety Specialist in banff, Canada. The guy filming is a mountain guide with 20 years experience. This shot takes place in Spain and it is how we deal with this type of anchor. We wouldn't show this otherwise. You are right to question us, your book, instructors. Sounds like you are doing things right. good luck out there.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 06:55:33
mikebarter387

This method is THE method for this anchor. End of story. The unfortunate thing is that your long winded babble only confuses those who are trying to learn.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 06:43:08
Dwiman89

Im new to climbing, but isnt this considered rappeling through a "cold shut" anchor and ill advised. I dont trully understand it. It was just in a guidebook I have... I am just top roping for now and only climb things that have safe access to the top in order to set up top rope. My rack isnt equiped enough for this nor do I have the knowledge yet, but i would like learnign the general concepts now.
jeudi 12 mars 2009 00:53:40
yasso2am

Once you put yourself on rappel and properly secure an autobloc, it is simply a matter of removing your two clips and safely and ethically rappelling to the ground. I commend your attempt here, and I understand everyone does things differently, however I just thought I'd voice my concern.
jeudi 19 février 2009 00:44:25